On my last visit, they were still restoring the royal citadel of Hué, destroyed in the American War. Now several more buildings are completed, but there is still lots of empty space with the scars of that war. The walled old quarter is still beautiful, tranquil, and amazingly untouched by tourism.
The eastern end of the modern town on the other side of the river, where I was staying in the Orchid hotel, is far more pleasant than I remembered it from my last visit. It’s fun to walk the streets at night.