At the border, the Rwandan customs officer hat me unpack my entire bag, including the dirty laundry bag. Maybe she was searching for plastoc bags, which are illegal in Rwanda. When people hear Rwanda they think of the Huthi genocide against the Huthi, but that was over 30 years ago and Rwanda is now a stable and relatively affluent country.

Cycled from the town of Musanze to Lake Burera with a guide. That’s only 17km, but half of that on very steep rocky trails that never seemed to end. Beautiful views though. After that we were rowing a wooden boat to one of the islands in the lake, and then hiking even steeper and even rockier trails to the top. More rowing, more hiking, bicycling back… I am in fairly good shape but I am really really tired now.

I admire the locals who do this with heavily loaded bicycles.