This is my favorite place in Marseille. A very large square with a fountain, no cars, lined with great cafés and restaurants. It’s always packed with outdoor seating, musicians, playing children, eclectic art stores, and people sitting together and enjoying the Mediterranean sun. Street art is everywhere, in the square and the adjoining streets, which are also pedestrianized.
I used to live in this neighborhood for a number of years, and I know all the best places. I feel at home every time I visit, and enjoy my favorite French meals while watching people. An American guidebook summarized it as “the Kreuzberg of Marseille”, but it’s more than that, far smaller but far more concentrated.



