Kigali is the capital of Rwanda and the epicenter of the fight against the government-incited 100-day genocide in 1994 of the Huthi against the Tutsi. They have an impressive museum showing how the Huthi genocide forces were defeated at right this building. They rebuilt, but left one wall with artillery holes as it was.

Downtown is not very interesting. A few highrises, a little gorilla statue, lots of police. Kigali is a modern city, although it does have poor neighborhoods.

The highlight is Nyamirambo, a southern district that is both muslim and the epicenter of Kigali’s party nightlife. Parts are pedestrianized and packed with restaurants, bars, and cafés. No alcohol, unless you ask discreetly. Everyone is young here, and it took me forever to pass through the area because I had people stand around me asking questions about traveling, Africa, Europe, religion, getting rich (I am white therefore rich), marriage (really), and general life advice. So this is what it’s like to be a grandparent?