Well, people don’t come here for the sights. Mombasa isn’t Paris. But it’s an almost spotlessly clean city, and they do have a late 16th-century fort, Fort Jesus, built by the Portuguese for the slave trade, until the Omanis came and did their usual thing and really turbocharged the slave trade.

North of Fort Jesus is Mombasa’s historical Old Town, with beautiful views of the Indian Ocean. The old harbor there is now used by the military, I was told that taking photos there means six months in prison so I took my photos elsewhere.

The modern part of town is a little faceless, but very friendly and walkable, and the traffic is surprisingly light. People are smiling and calling out Jambo (hello) and Karibu (welcome).